This year, my husband decided to test my resilience by choosing Morocco as one of our holiday destinations. And while Morocco is a vibrant country with warm and welcoming people, and I loved every part of this holiday, the real challenge lay in his choice of accommodation, making me endure less-than-ideal toilet facilities. It’s interesting how important having a working shower and fixed toilet seat is for good family interactions. But aside from that privileged and snobbish approach, the holiday was excellent.
The first thing we noticed when we stepped out of the airport and waited for our rented car was the uniform yet unique architecture, with buildings and houses all painted in the colours of the desert. Ochre, peach, and sienna dominated the landscape, even extending to the taxis, which were also ochre-coloured. The area was still recovering from the devastation caused by the 2023 Al Haouz earthquake. Many houses were being rebuilt, and some areas still bore visible signs of destruction, with ongoing construction and temporary shelters in place.
Our first hotel, the Gramta Hotel, was located close to the Medina in Marrakech, which meant we had a very noisy night. Planes flew overhead, and a constant stream of cars passed through the town. The hotel itself had a quaint Moroccan atmosphere, which was exactly what we had hoped for, but it would not have met any safety or hygiene standards in the UK. The charm and helpfulness of the owner, however, more than made up for the run-down toilets and dirty floors. When we arrived, some other guests let us in, as the owner had gone to the local supermarket to buy them dinner. We joined them for a meal and listened to their stories and recommendations about Morocco. One guest shared tales that could make your blood run cold, yet everyone agreed they loved Marrakech and can’t wait to return.
We went out to town for dinner that evening, deciding to walk the 25 minutes to the centre of the Medina. The traffic, the number of people, the sounds, smells, and colours were overwhelming. The Medina in Marrakech is a bustling, energetic, and hectic place where the local people spend their time selling, buying, looking, talking, and eating local delicacies. The Medina itself occupies Marrakech’s original fortified citadel. At night, Jemaa el-Fna square teems with snake charmers, folk dancers, and street food vendors serving a variety of food.
We ate at one of the rooftop terraces and decided to try some local cuisine, which was simple but tasty. There aren’t many options for vegans and vegetarians, as the diet heavily relies on meat, but we managed with vegetables and couscous served in the typical Tagine ceramic pot. With its elongated top, it is characteristic of this region and the dish is named after this pot. Nick’s meat came in a vessel that resembled a vase. The bread was also different from what we had before, but we had heard it was better to try some fresh at the market.
French is one of the languages spoken in Morocco, a colonial legacy from the French protectorate (1912–1956). Though it holds no officially recognised status in Morocco, it is often used for business, diplomacy, and government, serving as a lingua franca with non-Moroccans and non-Arabs.
You can feel the French influence in some of the cafes and desserts sold. However, Marrakech does not feel like a European city at all, being unique, with a vibrant culture. What was surprising was how clean the streets were within the Medina. While there was the occasional smell of human waste, the streets had no litter or plastic, and the local patisserie sold pastries in reusable fibre bags.
After a great evening walking around the Medina, we returned to our rooms in a taxi, no seatbelt and plenty of honking involved. We arrived at our marginally clean, comfortable beds, ready for a sleepless night.
Day 1: (I don’t count the day of arrival as Day 1 if I arrive after noon, as too much of the day is already gone!)
We woke to temperatures around 15 degrees. This time of year is perfect for travelling to the region, as there aren’t many tourists and the weather is much more bearable. However, bringing warm clothes is important as temperatures can fall to 9 degrees at night. When we landed, the weather seemed like it would take a downturn, but like the UK, there’s no point in relying too much on weather apps. As the week progressed, it was warmer than expected.
We spent the morning looking at options for the next part of our journey. We knew we wouldn’t stay in Marrakech and were glad we hadn’t booked anything in advance. Speaking to people who had travelled around Morocco helped us decide not to visit Casablanca, as we’d heard it had become “too modern” for our tastes. A beach was also an option, but with big waves, cold water, and crowded beaches, we decided to head in the opposite direction: east, towards the Sahara.
The Sahara desert has long been on my bucket list, and though I had previously visited Tunis and Egypt, there’s something about seeing the vastness of the Sahara from a dune that excited me. So we headed east to Skoura, about a 4-hour drive and halfway to the Sahara, where we would stay one night before heading to Merzouga for two nights in a tent in the desert.
After booking accommodation and planning the trip, we headed for the Medina to explore the old town and have lunch. We first went to the marketplace and navigated through the maze of stalls and booths filled with local and “less-local” produce. There were hundreds of stunning rugs, slippers, pots, and jewellery. The smells, sounds, and colours were extraordinary. In the end, I bought a teapot set for two, the same as the ones we’d been drinking daily Moroccan Mint tea in restaurants.
The heartbreaking sight was the animals. Birds, monkeys, and snakes were spectacles for tourists to photograph. It was upsetting, but thankfully, there was less of it than I expected, so perhaps the locals are reconsidering what they display, especially with fewer tourists showing interest. The horses that draw the carriages also looked thin, but I didn’t see them being mistreated except for working throughout the day in the scorching sun. We had heard of a donkey sanctuary where retired working donkeys are cared for, and we did some research on working camels in the Sahara. We found a foundation called Spana that educates locals on treating animals, particularly working ones. The stray cats appeared well-fed, though a few had eye infections. The cats at our accommodation were so well-fed they weren’t interested in the leftover ham and cheese I offered them.
After the bustling market, we went to the rooftop terrace of the recommended Bazaar Café, for some peace while having lunch. It was one of the more expensive spots recommended to us, but the food and service were good. Surprisingly, Moroccan food isn’t spicy at all, with little seasoning overall. But this may be true of food served in Marrakech as later in the trip, the food got more spicy. The dishes mainly consist of cooked meat, overcooked vegetables, couscous, and local bread. Although made with similar basic ingredients to what we use, the bread had a more grainy texture, possibly due to the semolina on which it was baked. It was nice but didn’t have much flavour. The ten most important spices in Moroccan cuisine include cayenne, cinnamon, turmeric, ginger, black pepper, aniseed, sesame seeds, cumin, paprika, and saffron, none of which we tasted much in the food we had in Marrakech.
We returned to our hotel for a dip in, what turned out to be, the coldest water we’d ever swum in. But once we got used to it, it was quite fun, and our host brought us glasses of hot tea to sip while we dived for toys. As the temperature rose, it was quite refreshing. We then played a few rounds of Remi-bridge, our family holiday game of choice. It’s long been proposed that this game was totally made up by my dad, but after doing some quick research on Google, it was confirmed that aside from a few bent rules to make the game a little harder, we have, in fact, been playing a game that does exist outside our family circle.
More people came to stay at the hotel, so it became less muted and “more lively”, so we decided to make our way back to the old town for a long dinner and finished the evening with a stroll to our hotel.
Day 2: Marrakech to Skoura
On the way out of Marrakech, we saw stacks of stones covered in white paint every few metres. I haven’t found an answer as to what they signify. Some people believe they’re road markers, while others think they mark territory.
Riverbeds, with the promise of water, marked our journey to Skoura. The rainy season was about to begin. It was the second week of November, and Marrakech had recently suffered severe flooding after a weekend of thunderstorms. Both tourists and locals commented on the poor infrastructure for managing flooding, with stories of sewage systems overflowing into the streets.
The roads we travelled on were excellent, though we occasionally encountered road diversions due to rockfalls. These were well-managed, and we were quickly back on track. We first drove around two hours to Tizi n’Tichka. I confess I read about it somewhere but didn’t recall why I wanted to drive through it. We reached around 2200 metres above sea level and stopped to watch a flock of sheep searching for blades of grass among the rubbish left by the roadside. It was a heartbreaking scene, a stark contrast to Marrakech, which was relatively litter-free.
Next, we drove an hour to Atlas Studios, where films like The Jewel of the Nile and The Mummy were filmed. It’s known for preserving its sets and repurposing them for different productions. Sets used for films like Gladiator and Prince of Persia can be reused for Game of Thrones. Although we didn’t take the guided tour, which offers movie-themed anecdotes and insight into the construction, we were fascinated by the backstage areas. The part where Assassin’s Creed was filmed gave us chills, remembering how the actors jumped over the structures. The studio was also featured in an episode of The Grand Tour.
After another 50 minutes, we arrived at our hotel, Kasbah Ait Ben Hadda, on the outskirts of Skoura. The hotel is technically a kasbah, a fortress commonly found in citadels in Morocco. Kasbahs have a unique structure and have served various purposes throughout history, from military strongholds to royal residences. As it was the off-peak season, we were some of the few visitors there, which meant a quite evening drinking tea and playing chess.
Day 3: Skoura to Erg Chebbi Desert near Merzouga
Breakfast consisted of an assortment of bread, omelette, “crepes” Moroccan square pancakes, and condiments such as honey, ham, and butter. We drove towards the desert, passing snow-capped mountains, cooperative farmlands, and barren, empty fields. We also drove near the location of the annual rose festival. While we missed the April-May festival and saw no roses, we did pass several perfume shops selling products made from them.
One thing that stood out was the number of football pitches we saw along the way. Though calling them football pitches may have been an exaggeration, they were fields with net-less goalposts and the only visible signs of sport. It was interesting to observe how football has spread worldwide, with people in remote areas engaging in a simple game. It speaks to how global football goes above economic barriers and is a universal pastime.
We arrived in Merzouga, where we left our car and were taken by 4WD to our campsite. The journey took us through stunning dunes, passing by people riding camels. Although the camels were well-treated, we chose the less eco-friendly but more animal-friendly option. Though somewhat tacky with LED lighting, the campsite was in the glamping spirit, offering full bedrooms and toilets.
Arriving a couple of hours before dinner, we decided to take a quick stroll to the dunes. The views were breathtaking, and although this desert is just a small section of the Sahara, it felt vast and easy to get lost in. Our host drove us to the top of a higher dune to watch the sunset and take pictures. He shared that the best photos are taken near the ground, where the sand reveals its real orange hue.
After sunset, we returned to camp for dinner, which was the best we had during our Moroccan adventure. We started with dates and a sesame sweet, followed by a bowl of soup with bread. The main dish was a unique version of tagine, served with delicious bread instead of couscous. For dessert, we had a bowl of fruit, which we were too full to touch.
After dinner, we were invited to dress in local garments and join the hosts around the fire for a concert of live local music, during which we danced. Later, we ventured out into the dunes to gaze at the stars and take photos with some resting camels. Our host, who was incredibly knowledgeable, shared insights with us. We learned that only male camels are used for work – transporting people across the desert, while females are bred for milk. He also explained that camel dung, once dried for a week, loses its smell and can be used as firewood when wood is scarce.
We were lucky enough to see a falling meteorite and a shooting star. Our host pointed out the star constellations he knew and shared stories of local wildlife, such as jerboa, desert cats with extra furry paws, dung beetles, scarabs, and desert-coloured parrots.
Day 4: Sahara Desert
We woke early to catch the sunrise. The first thing we heard was that it was raining, which is a rare occurrence in the desert, so we considered ourselves lucky. After taking some photos, we headed back for breakfast, which, once again, was one of the best we had. We tried a local omelette made with tomatoes, onions, and eggs, along with "crepes," a thicker version of European pancakes that complement both sweet and savoury dishes.
After a stroll in the dunes, we headed to town, as I had a work call. While the internet in the Sahara is decent, it was not strong enough for a 1.5-hour video call. Our host drove us to his sister's house, where we were invited to sit and enjoy an amazing home-cooked meal of tajine, local pizza, and fruit. Moroccan hospitality was unmatched; we had been shown nothing but kindness throughout our stay.
After lunch, I had my call at a local café, before we set off for a 2.5-hour quad bike ride. The boys loved it, and I’ll leave it at that! We first drove to a local lake, where flamingos sometimes gather. Then we headed to the dunes for some “fun”, before crossing a desert plain where nomads were camping. We eventually returned to our campsite, exhausted, and headed straight to bed after another wonderful dinner.
Day 5 and 6: Merzouga to Agdz, Agdz to Marrakech
It was sad to leave the desert camp. The Sahara is a true wonder, and the people, especially our host Hassan, were incredibly welcoming. We learned so much about local life and customs from him, and if we return to the Sahara, it will certainly be to his campsite.
On the way to Agdz, we stopped between Merzouga and Erfoud, also known as the Valley of the Trilobites. We drove off the main road to visit Abd Lwahab Fossils, where we had the opportunity to speak with a local who collects and sells fossils. He showed us beautiful specimens, including fossilised trilobites, jellyfish, nautilus, and even meteorites he had found in the area.
We continued our journey, passing amazing landscapes and reaching an oasis where we were treated to mint tea and dinner before retiring for the night. The hotels outside Marrakech offered set menus, and while vegetarian options were available, vegan food was not well understood. A vegetable tajine, however, should be fine.
The next day, after a hearty breakfast, we headed out for the last leg of our journey. We spent the day on the road, passing small towns and stopping for a quick lunch. We even got to see tumbleweed on the side of the road that was blown into town by strong winds. By the time we returned to our accommodation in Marrakech, we were too tired to do anything more than play a few rounds of Remi-bridge before heading to bed.
Day 7: Marrakech to the UK
I would be lying if I said I felt well-rested after this holiday. On the contrary, Morocco is as intense as it is vibrant. Alan would describe it as breathtaking due to the smog, and I must agree that the pollution in Marrakech was overwhelming. After the peaceful nights in the desert, the city felt louder and smellier.
